Facts and Questions
** Compact Clipcord/Binding Post Area. You will/may need to trim the leads on your clipcord depending on manufacturer.**
General Machine Info
Machine Weight: 5.75oz.
Machine Frame: Aluminum
Abar/Flywheel/Rod: Steel
Motor: 6w Swiss made. 5-9V operating range
Flywheel Stroke: 0.140’’/3.6mm(stock)
Springs: 018 020 025 028 030 (020 stock)
Bearings: Sealed and/or self lubricated
**These machines have a break-in period for bearings and surfaces to loosen up. They wear in nicely!
Q: How do I change springs?
A: When swapping out springs, ensure that the new spring is seated in it’s recessed pocket on the Abar. Gently hand tighten each 8/32 screw without fully tightening. The gap between the upper and lower Abar should be set to approx. .030” or a little less than 1mm. An easy way to set this would be to press the halves together after gently tightening the 2-8/32 screws before fully tightening them. This essentially bottoms out the two piece design and can go no further together than the approximate 0.030” gap tolerance. *Also be sure to check Abar nipple to tube vise center alignment. Making sure it is not misaligned after fully tightening.
Q: Can I cut/shape my own springs?
A: YES, springs are the exact same material used on coil machines, high carbon blue tempered spring steel. *Be sure to debur hand cut springs as to not inhibit any movement of the Abar. *Useful information. While shaping springs DO NOT allow excessive heat into the material, do not quench. Monitoring the heat will ensure the temper is not changed and uphold the material’s integrity.
Q: Are springs included with the original purchase of the machine?
A: Yes, original machine purchases include springs(3) 020 025 028
Q: What is the voltage operating range?
A: These Swiss made motors operate @5-9V. I’m usually right around 6v loaded. Carts will be abit higher.
Q: What polarity should I use?
A: Straight polarity, red to red; black to black. *These machines will run very similarly straight or reverse polarity.
Q: Can I run constant on?
A: I run both constant on and footswitch depending on the area I’m working or the day. If I run constant on, I give it periodic rest. *New machines I tend to run constant on more so to speed up the break-in period.
Q: What’s the setup recommendations?
A: Ensure that the Abar is in its full retracted/start position. The motor will turn through by simply rolling over the flywheel by hand, do this to confirm that it’s in the start position/beginning of the stroke. I use paper towel grommets and 2 - #12 rubber bands with my daily setup of 11-15m as well as putting a very slight downward arch on my needle bar. I tend to set my needle flush or BACK within the tube a little less than a dime thickness. 1mm/0.040” or so. This will depend on your own personal preferences as well as tube design. A good general rule of thumb with rotaries is that if it feels like snagging, its either too slow of needle speed(V) or too much needle stick out from the tube; or at least those are the first two things I troubleshoot. I suggest running the machine after setting up as to get a visual of the obtained needle stick out prior to tattooing.
Q: Do the bearings require any servicing/maintenance?
A: NO, The main flywheel roller bearing is sealed and requires no oil/grease. The sleeve bearings also require no oil/grease. The sleeve bearings are self lubricating for the life of the machine. However, bearings do fail. All bearing are completely serviceable/replaceable. *Please keep sterilants away from all bearings.
Q: Are these machines cartridge compatible?
A: Yes, however traditional needle bar setups maximize the Abar actuation; the bog/give. With cartridge setups I recommend using one #12 rubber band over the drive bar and one around the Abar to ensure the proper drive bar cartridge plunger connection. **Longer drive drives maybe necessary, depending on cartridge/tube/grip setup.
Q: How can I get my machine serviced?
A: Please CONTACT me for diagnosis/repairs.